I went to the kotel last week. We don't go very often, and usually with kids. This was quieter (just us grownups) and I was hoping to get some time to think.
I moved through the rows of chairs, forward and to the right, and up the steps towards the inside room which fits no more than 10 women; it offers privacy and intimacy for prayer, quite a different feel from the outdoors public affair that praying at the kotel typically involves. I felt that the privacy would be soothing, but I only lasted a few minutes. I kept fidgeting and looking through the door at the sunshine and breeze.
So back down I went, and as I took the last step, a woman appeared within my sight. She looked middle-aged and heavy-set, wearing a plain cotton dress with a shawl, a scarf covering her head. She held her hands outwards, and called her tefilot out intentionally loudly, with a voice that carried. While she chanted her prayer, she jumped up and down, rhythmically, in time to her words:
I love Eretz Yisrael, more than I love my own body!
I love Am Yisrael, more than I love my own body!
I love Hashem, more than I love my own body!
I found her mesmerising. I loved the brashness of her statements, and the loudness of her declarations. It seemed to me she was teaching people how to pray: honestly, wholeheartedly and with humility. (It doesn't fit our typical definitions of humility, to jump and yell in front of a crowd, but read those words again.)
Then I opened my siddur to pray. And closed it again. I spent some time thinking about what to pray for. Truly, that time was a luxury that I cherish. Because when you stand at the kotel thinking about what you want to pray for - right here and right now - it had better be good. And by "good" I mean, genuine and true. When we can figure out what we want from life, when we know what to ask for, it is a beautiful and precious thing.
(Photo: This is not a picture of me! I took this picture with the praying woman's knowledge)